Manchester’s best Thai restaurant.

The Venue
When you first enter Chaophraya, you could be forgiven for thinking that you have strolled onto the set of a new Indiana Jones film: both the spacious ground floor bar and expansive upstairs restaurant are adorned with oriental sculptures, large buddas, paintings and trinkets that transport you east. Nestled above Uncle Sam’s Chophouse on Chapel Walks just off Cross Street, Chaophraya is an Oriental oasis in the middle of the busy city centre.

The Atmosphere
Given its central location and air of pure escapism from the madding crowds, it is hardly surprising that Chaophraya is popular with local workers wanting to unwind after a long day at the office. You can relax with a drink on the traditional-style seats that are built into the floor and make you sit cross legged, while the soothing sound of the nearby water fountain gurgles away.

The staff are extremely friendly and helpful. From the greeter, who gives you a traditional Thai greeting (the wai, two hands in prayer position with a small bow), to the waiters and waitresses who hover around your table, the service is very good although some may find it a touch subservient.

The Food
The Chaophraya special mixed appetisers for two sounds like a very tempting starter on paper, but this dish is slightly disappointing. The spring rolls, satay chicken, prawn toast, prawn tempura and crispy wantons are light, tasty and crunchy, but there isn’t anything special about them for £6 per person.

The main courses, excluding special dishes such as lobster, are more reasonably priced: they range in price from around £8 to £12 (excluding rice and noodles). The pad prik Thai pum costs £8 for the basic dish and consists of your choice of meat or fish which is then sauteed with red and green peppers, Spanish onion, black pepper sauce and served to you on a sizzling plate. It is very aromatic and flavoursome, with a touch of spice, but on occasion the king prawns (at a supplement of £2) can be slightly undercooked, which spoils the texture of the dish.

A much better option is to choose the choo chee, a dish that when done well showcases the very best of Thai cooking. It is served with filleted sea bass or prawns, so you will avoid any unnecessary surprises like when the fish is served whole with the head and all, as in many restaurants. The sea bass is lightly fried so it has a golden crisp edge and the coconut and chilli based sauce is so good you’ll be dreaming over it for weeks to come. The rich, lingering flavours of the Kaffir lime leaves and sweet basil combine with the heat of the chilli and the creamy coconut to stunning effect.

The sweet, sticky jasmine rice in coconut milk (£3) is ideal to take the edge off some of the more spicy dishes and it comes wrapped in a banana leaf, giving it an extra exotic twist. Plain boiled Jasmine rice is £2.10, but be aware that portion sizes are fairly small.

The Drink
Chaophraya has an adequate wine list, exotic cocktails and a good range of perfectly chilled bottled beer. If you just pop in for a drink, you are presented with a basket of free prawn crackers, a pleasant surprise and an ideal accompaniment to an ice-cold bottle of Singha.

The Last Word
If you order the right dishes, the food here is spectacular. Combined with this the exotic decor and pleasant ambiance make Chaophraya an essential destination, especially if you want to escape from the hustle and bustle of Manchester city centre.

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